Day 3: Getaria to Ibiri

 

Once again we rose at 5:30 and were on our way at 6:00 am, early enough to have the entire town to ourselves.  We walked and walked and walked and walked and…couldn’t find a single bar or restaurant open for coffee and tortilla espanola until 10:30 am.  Paco was not amused!

 

Once again, the views of the countryside from the mountain ranges we climbed were stunning.

 

Also amazing are the vivid colors of hydrangeas that cover the mountainside.  The bright pink and deep purples are truly stunning.

 

 

The territory we’re traversing is very rural.  Agriculture rules.  We passed lots and lots of vineyards, and farmland dotted with Basque hay bales. 

 

 

Conveniently, the local water is safe to drink. There are water fountains throughout the Camino: in towns, along paths, in parks, everywhere.  This water fountain in the town of Zumaia is one of our favorite.

 

 

After 6 hours of walking, we reached the cute town of Deba.  It has a lovely town square and lots of bars and restaurants to refresh your spirit.  

 

From our outdoor perch at lunch we spied many pilgrims we had met in previous days. Later that night in our albergue, we connected with Katrin, a German PhD student studying behavioral psychology, and Jaszia, a Polish mom from Krakow walking with her 2 sons.  Interestingly, the 16-year-old zipped past us on the Purgatory route on the first day of the Camino, only to cool his jets waiting for the rest of the family to catch up.  Funny to see them all at the same albergue, a few days later.

One the way to the albergue, we passed the Galbario Ermitage, a beautiful remote shrine, complete with the “flying boats” so common in this region, symbolizing the Blessed Mother’s special protection for fishermen.

 

 

At long last, we reached our destination around 4:30 pm. We strategically chose this spot since it’s the last possible launching ground for tomorrow’s very difficult walk: 20 km in wilderness, no amenities, and 1000 feet gain in elevation.  And it’s forecast to rain. We’re praying for good weather and good luck on the journey!

 

Day 2: San Sebastián to Getaría

I know you're wondering, so here goes: (1) I found my toothpaste in the first aid kit, and, (2) lunch at Amelia in San Sebastián yesterday was totally worth it. 

We set the alarm for 5:30 AM, made coffee in the hotel room, and were walking in the rain at 6 AM.  The first thing I saw were two scantily clad young women.  Before I could jump to any conclusions,  we came across crowds of young people still out from the night before! This is not the French Camino. 

The climb out of San Sebastián was steep, but the views were worth it.

The path rose behind and over the high rise apartment buildings at the north end of town then continued up the coast.  We passed beautiful villas perched high with amazing water views.

We climbed for over four hours, reaching a height of almost 300 meters (980 feet) before descending to the cute town of Orio.  It was 10:15 when I finally got my Spanish Omelet and cafe con leche.  It was so worth it.

We came across very few pilgrims on the road (same pattern as always, younger people passing us).  Bear that in mind when I talk about lodging later.

Our original plan was to walk almost 20 miles to Zumaia (see my posted itinerary).  Last night, looking at elevation maps, we decided that didn't make sense.  The guide book said to walk to another Z, the big beach town of Zarautz. 

We were making good time considering that lots of our walk was on deteriorated ancient stone roads that were wet from the week's rain.

Does that look like a road to you? It's a rocky, muddy path.

Eventually,  we got onto modern roads between San Martin and Zarautz.   We were walking, facing traffic on a two lane road when the drizzle started to become more pronounced.   We donned our hideous blue Smithsonian ponchos from the last Camino (and the 1990's).  The skies opened up.  It sucked.

Up ahead, a Camino marker directed us to get off the paved road.  Big Mistake.  Two steps into this shortcut,  I lose my footing, land on my butt and take a nice gouge out of my left hand.

(You don't use that part of your hand anyway...)

We got back on the two lane road, and after not more than 30 feet, we see SIDEWALKS on both sides.  I can curse in more than one language.  At this point my hand is partially numb and bleeding.   My left knee has stiffened up.  I'm not happy.

We decide to stop at an Albergue.  They're booked up!  Four people have passed us all day and they're booked up! How does that work?

Now, I'm getting really salty.  We decide to limp another 5.3 kilometers to the cute seaside town of Getaria-but first, we booked beds at an albergue there.  Fool me once... not gonna fool me again...

Cutting through the melodrama,  I'm writing this on my phone from the upper bunk in a very nice Albergue just off the old Town center.  This is the first hostel I've been to where you get not only sheets but also towels.  For 30 euros a person, that is.   Toto,  I don't think we're in 2019 anymore...

We had a nice lunch in town (marginally cheaper than our beds), did our laundry, and explored the town.

The church of San Salvador is cool, but this Virgin Mary statue creeped me out.

Who's the guy in the box under her feet?!

Look, it's all good.   We walked something like 27 kilometers, and we're still smiling. And I have toothpaste! 

(We walked the entire coastline visible in this picture. )

Tomorrow's plan is to walk to a small town in the mountains named Ibiri.  Why? Because after that comes the worst climb of the whole trip, in the rain, on Sunday.  (Probably not the best plan.)  Tina will fill you in tomorrow. 

Day One: Irun to San Sebastian

 

We’re on our way! Left our backpacks behind at the hotel in San Sebastian and took a 6:00 am train to Irun, on the French border.  On leaving the train station, we headed to the albergue (hostel) to get the first stamp in our Passports.  Paco was beaming as he made those first notations in our Camino books.

 

Every Pilgrim on the Camino carries a multi-page booklet called a Passport.  It’s the “proof” that you’ve really been in each town along the way.  We’re required to get at least one stamp each day along the way.  Upon arrival in Santiago de Compostela, we’re required to show the Passport and all its stamps to the official in order to receive the certificate of completion.

As we began the steep climb out of Irun, one of the first sites we encountered was the Sanctuario de Guadalupe.  Built in the 16^th century, it’s home to the statue of the Black Virgen that was discovered by two children on the mountainside.  We were so lucky to find the doors open and to peek inside.                                           

 

After that began the grueling journey of scaling the mountains between Irun and the ferry to San Pedro.  We had a choice of two routes: the lower, much less steep route, or the highly recommended higher route, aptly named “The Route of Purgatory”.  You guessed it, we chose the higher route.  Yikes!  It started with a steep 900 foot climb to a ridge line, and a lot more climbing, and lots more ridge lines, to follow.  Yes, the views were great, but still…

After a short ferry ride across a river, we climbed another mountain (this is going to be the theme of this Camino, I’m afraid!) providing beautiful views the water, the cliffs, and the rural landscape. At one point, the fog started rolling adding a mystical feel to the moment. Really beautiful.  At 2:00 pm, we finally reached San Sebastian, hungry and exhausted.

 So why didn’t we stop and relax at cafes along the way?  Because there were none to be found!  Not even water fountains with potable water to refill our empty water bottles.  The first café we spotted was at the ferry dock, the next was very close the San Sebastian.  They had water and coffee, but no soda and no food.  Hopefully, this isn’t a precursor of what’s to come.  We really enjoyed the café society vibe of the French Camino and hope to experience that again this round.

Day 1 statistics: 27 kilometers, 2,200 feet of elevation. Time for lunch and a nap!

(Note: tomorrow's a day off so Paco can go to some restaurant.  Our next post will be Friday, June 30th.)

Madrid to San Sebastian

I sweat the details, so traveling on the Camino is like shock therapy.  This morning,  we're flying to San Sebastian and we plan to take a bus from the airport to the hotel there.

We had to check our backpacks,  so I'm already stressed out.  This could be a very short trek if they don't show up.

Our itinerary for today is to buy runners' compression socks for Tina and  a pocket knife for our snacks. Not expecting to check bags, I left my Swiss Army knife in Madrid. 

Tomorrow,  Wednesday, we're going to start our walking a day early by taking the first morning train to Irún and walking back to San Sebastian.  Why the change in plans? Well, Thursday was the only day we could get a reservation at this fancy restaurant that we love.  (I know. That doesn't sound like Pilgrim behavior.  I know!)

San Sebastian is a beautiful coastal city with picturesque beaches and amazing food.  That's why we figured we'd spend some extra time there at the start.  (I just couldn't get a Wednesday restaurant reservation! )

Tina on "la Concha" in San Sebastian 

The real challenge starts on Friday when we see if we're up to that itinerary I published.  We trained plenty, but Tina started to get this awful hiker's rash on her calves that the compression socks are meant to address.  This could be a deal breaker. 

Epilog: It's pushing 11 PM, and the boss is asleep.  Everything's gone according to plan except I seem to have lost my toothpaste between Madrid and here!

Tomorrow,  we'll be on a 6:15 AM train to Irún to start our first stage.  I'll let Tina tell you how it turns out.

Our Itinerary for the Camino del Norte

 I was serious when I said you could join us on our Camino this Summer.  Here's the itinerary, but there's one important caveat: things don't always go according to plan.  Lots could go wrong--or Tina might decide to walk further!

We're Gonna Do It Again!

 It's decided!  In July of next year, 2023, we're going to walk the Camino del Norte, through the Basque Country, Asturias, and Galicia.  I am so psyched.  

 I've drawn up an itinerary that takes 29 days including two days off, one in Santander and one in Luarca.  Chances are that reality will diverge from the plan. Plus we're four years older so plenty can go wrong.

So here's an invitation, once we make the travel arrangements, you're invited to join us for any part of the walk you're interested in.  Deal?

Our bags are packed... actually, I never unpacked.