Day 2: San Sebastián to Getaría

I know you're wondering, so here goes: (1) I found my toothpaste in the first aid kit, and, (2) lunch at Amelia in San Sebastián yesterday was totally worth it. 

We set the alarm for 5:30 AM, made coffee in the hotel room, and were walking in the rain at 6 AM.  The first thing I saw were two scantily clad young women.  Before I could jump to any conclusions,  we came across crowds of young people still out from the night before! This is not the French Camino. 

The climb out of San Sebastián was steep, but the views were worth it.

The path rose behind and over the high rise apartment buildings at the north end of town then continued up the coast.  We passed beautiful villas perched high with amazing water views.

We climbed for over four hours, reaching a height of almost 300 meters (980 feet) before descending to the cute town of Orio.  It was 10:15 when I finally got my Spanish Omelet and cafe con leche.  It was so worth it.

We came across very few pilgrims on the road (same pattern as always, younger people passing us).  Bear that in mind when I talk about lodging later.

Our original plan was to walk almost 20 miles to Zumaia (see my posted itinerary).  Last night, looking at elevation maps, we decided that didn't make sense.  The guide book said to walk to another Z, the big beach town of Zarautz. 

We were making good time considering that lots of our walk was on deteriorated ancient stone roads that were wet from the week's rain.

Does that look like a road to you? It's a rocky, muddy path.

Eventually,  we got onto modern roads between San Martin and Zarautz.   We were walking, facing traffic on a two lane road when the drizzle started to become more pronounced.   We donned our hideous blue Smithsonian ponchos from the last Camino (and the 1990's).  The skies opened up.  It sucked.

Up ahead, a Camino marker directed us to get off the paved road.  Big Mistake.  Two steps into this shortcut,  I lose my footing, land on my butt and take a nice gouge out of my left hand.

(You don't use that part of your hand anyway...)

We got back on the two lane road, and after not more than 30 feet, we see SIDEWALKS on both sides.  I can curse in more than one language.  At this point my hand is partially numb and bleeding.   My left knee has stiffened up.  I'm not happy.

We decide to stop at an Albergue.  They're booked up!  Four people have passed us all day and they're booked up! How does that work?

Now, I'm getting really salty.  We decide to limp another 5.3 kilometers to the cute seaside town of Getaria-but first, we booked beds at an albergue there.  Fool me once... not gonna fool me again...

Cutting through the melodrama,  I'm writing this on my phone from the upper bunk in a very nice Albergue just off the old Town center.  This is the first hostel I've been to where you get not only sheets but also towels.  For 30 euros a person, that is.   Toto,  I don't think we're in 2019 anymore...

We had a nice lunch in town (marginally cheaper than our beds), did our laundry, and explored the town.

The church of San Salvador is cool, but this Virgin Mary statue creeped me out.

Who's the guy in the box under her feet?!

Look, it's all good.   We walked something like 27 kilometers, and we're still smiling. And I have toothpaste! 

(We walked the entire coastline visible in this picture. )

Tomorrow's plan is to walk to a small town in the mountains named Ibiri.  Why? Because after that comes the worst climb of the whole trip, in the rain, on Sunday.  (Probably not the best plan.)  Tina will fill you in tomorrow.