Thursday, August 1, 2024

Day 18 Finisterre to Muxía: the End of our Journey

 

The last day.  It’s always a bittersweet experience.  We’ve relished each day of the difficult and challenging journey, and we’re excited to finally achieve our audacious goal.  Every moment today is extra-special

We got a 6:30 am start, in the fog and dew of a dark morning.  The forecast was for cool, rainy weather most of the day, with partial clearing in the afternoon.

The forecast was right.  We walked in the foggy, damp morning alone, just nature surrounding us.  By 7:30 am, it was time for rain slickers.  Paco had just been commenting this morning that the one item we packed—and never used—was the waterproof backpack cover.  It sure came in handy today!

 

Cloudy Start to the Day

Quiet Paths

 
Mickey Re-appears!

We had a three plus-hour trek to our coffee break, through remote country roads.  It was beautiful.  We passed all the usual sights: eucalyptus groves, wildlife, hilly terrain, confusing markings.  Ah, the Camino!

 

Wildflowers Along the Way

Then, in the distance, we heard some unusual sounds: rumbling, grinding gears, motors.  But we couldn't see anything that could cause such sounds--in the countryside.  As we walked, the sounds grew louder and louder.  Until we saw it:  a small, local lumber mill!  The employees were taking the large, harvested logs and turning them into planks, and chipping the unusable pieces for particleboard, mulch, and other purposes.  That's brilliant! The trees are grown here, harvested here--and processed here. How sustainable.

 

Local Lumber Mill

We passed no pilgrims headed in our direction all day.  Plenty were going the other way: from Muxia to Finisterre, but not the other way ‘round.  I guess everyone wants to finish in Finisterre.  Oh well…

We had a welcome rest break around 10 am in the town of Lires.  Paco even got his Spanish tortilla!  We saw lots of fellow pilgrims here and in neighboring villages. Going the other way.


Coffee and Tortilla
 

Walking out of our cafe, we came across an amazing cactus growing long the side of a home.  We've seen lots of succulents in Galicia.  It seems kind of odd, given the cool and  rainy climate.  We normally associate these plants with the desert Southwest.


Cactus in Galicia

After our break, the hard part of the walk began.  We had to ascend about 900 feet (90 flights of stairs), and go back down again, in order to reach our destination.  It was rocky, slippery, and long.  We were walking at the same height as—or above—the wind turbines and high-tension power lines.  We were up high!

Of course, it was raining again. 

Walking in the Rain

 
A Beach in the Distance

Shortly after descending from the mountain, we started to glimpse beaches.  And rocky shorelines.  And Muxía! (pronounced moo-SHE-ya) The weather was clearing and we could actually see the shore.  It was beautiful, rocky, and breathtaking.

Coastline on the Approach to Muxía

 
The Last Mile

Amazing Coastal Views


First order of business: visiting the local tourist office for our Muxíana, the official certificate that commemorates our walk into the city. Next came lunch.  We found a Michelin-recommended restaurant in town and managed to get a scarce table for two.  The food was spectacular.

 

Salad

Sardines

Then off to see the most important sight in the city: the sanctuary of Nosa Señora da Barca (Our Lady of the Ships) and the rocks along the shoreline.  Legend has it that the Virgin Mary, riding in a stone boat, appeared to the Apostle St James to give him courage in his mission of evangelization.  The rocks along the shore include remnants of that stone boat.  The church, rebuilt numerous times over the centuries, includes replicas of sailing ships supported by angels throughout the sanctuary.

Church of Nosa Señora de Barca

 
The Sanctuary

Boats Supported by Angels

The Lighthouse

Sacred and Rugged Beauty



It's truly a magical place.  The views were spectacular.  The church was awe-inspiring.  We’re so grateful to have had the opportunity to complete this journey.

Along the Way

 

Thanks for sharing this adventure with us!  Paco will be back with a final wrap-up shortly.

 

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